What is Comedogenicity

Comedogenic means a substance’s ability to penetrate into pores and cause the formation of comadones, blackheads and slightly elevated small whiteheads appearing usually over the cheeks, chin and sometimes the forehead. Periodically, some of these whiteheads turn into inflamed pustules.

There has been very little clinical research done on the comedogenicity of cosmetics, but two studies are most often quoted. The most prodigious was the study by Drs. Kligman, Mills and Plewig in 1972 when they termed “acne cosmetica”. A later study was published by Dr. James E. Fulton Jr. who reported his findings on the comedogenicity of various cosmetic ingredients. Both of these major “acne cosmetica” studies were based on assays of the rabbit ear. They were grading the comedogenic ingredients on a 5 point grading scale. Grades of 1 and 2 were considered mildly comedogenic and grades of 3, 4 and 5 were highly comedogenic.

Here are the most common comedogenic ingredients found in moisturizers, sun blocks, tanning lotions, foundations, pressed powders, and other cosmetics:

Isopropyl Myristate, Linseed Oil, Olive Oil, Cocoa Butter, Coal Tar, Isopropyl Isostereate, Lanolic Acid, Acetylated Lanolin, Oleyl Alcohol, Octyl Palmitate, Isostearic Acid, Myreth 3 Myristate, Butyl Sterate.

Many women at sometime in their life will be affected by “acne cosmetica”. It may be affecting 30 million women in America, especially those who had acne as a teenager or are genetically acne prone. To avoid further problems, check your product ingredients to determine the exact percentage of both the ingredient itself and oil content.

A full list of common comdogenic ingredients is available at the Clinic and your esthetician can advise you on the proper home-care program.